Brand New: In Providence, Persimmon is bigger and even better

By Gail Ciampa
Providence Journal

Posted May 31, 2016

Former Bristol restaurateurs Champe and Lisa Speidel have expanded both venue and menu in their new home on Hope Street.

PROVIDENCE, R.I. — What do I like best about the new Persimmon? That’s easy. It’s that five-minute drive from my office to blissful food and drink. 

The idea that I can crave chef Champe Speidel’s asparagus dish or spring green beignets, and within minutes take a seat to enjoy them, that’s as intoxicating as the perfectly crafted cocktail I’ll be sipping. 

THE STORY

Persimmon was destination dining in Bristol for 11 years. But its popularity outgrew its cozy dining room. And though it was there that Speidel made his case as one of the state’s elite with six James Beard nominations for Best Chef Northeast, he said he began to feel limited by the space.

The Speidels, with designer Libby Slader and a small army of artisans, created a new dining room with tables replacing old booths.

They opened up the kitchen, added tile and a chef’s bar with five seats. They spruced up the spacious bar area, which features 12 stools and table seating with banquette and chairs. 

THE VIBE

The electric energy at the new Persimmon was obvious immediately upon entering through the bar. It’s been packed every night, not just with people from the neighborhood but with old fans and friends in the Rhode Island hospitality industry. 

There’s quite a large staff at the ready to take orders and deliver food, and they do it seamlessly. This is no surprise from a team, headed by Lisa and dining room manager Kevin O’Connor, that has two Beard nominations for outstanding service. 

I sat at the chef’s bar and loved the show of watching Speidel and sous chef Kyle Kerstetter plate the savory dishes while Kristen O’Loughlin and Emily Schlag assembled the desserts and more. Their seemingly endless supply of containers with prepped food — think chocolates and meringues — was so fun to watch. I took the ladies’ advice for two remarkable desserts: the refreshing mango passion sorbet ($4) and the party plate of Valrhona chocolate ($9).

THE FOOD

Oh the food. Here every dish is layered with flavors and elegantly presented, a delight to see and eat. 

Speidel has expanded his menu greatly by offering categories — vegetables, meats, fish, pasta and desserts. They are not small plates but portions that allow you to eat as many or as few dishes as you like. Most of the dishes are priced $10-$15, with meats $15 to $24.

The beignets ($8) were stuffed with spring greens and served with a light ramp aioli. Venison tartare ($15) was as complex as it was delicious, with toasted hazelnuts, pickled green almonds and a little crunch from breadcrumbs.

The spaghetti bolognese ($12) was simply al dente pasta adorned with a rich meat sauce. The asparagus ($10) was a linear dish with the vegetables adorned with morel mushrooms and glazed scallions. The pan-seared scallops ($15) were sweet and delicate.

Perhaps the most amazing dish was the cavatelli ($12), which like all the pasta is made in-house. It comes with tender-as-can-be lamb shoulder rillette and diced carrots. It was a whole meal in a bowl.

A salad ($12) of greens, pickled vegetables and flowers was drizzled with an herbed buttermilk vinaigrette.

But you don’t have to eat all that. You can pick and choose and be in and out for a drink and after-work snack if you choose. The new Persimmon has made the menu flexible for dining your way.

DRINKS 

O’Connor also wears a bartending hat and has curated a list of drinks whose layers match Speidel’s food. Trader Vic’s Original Mai Tai ($11) is a creamy mix of rums, Don Q Cristal and Cruzan Black Strap. 

The Woburn ($12) is robust with Old Overhold Rye, Aperol, Blueberry mist shrub and aromatic bitters. But my favorite is the Toronto ($14); served with one solid ice cube, it pairs Lot 40 Canadian Rye and Fernet.

There are beer selections, including some on draft, and lovely boutique wine list.

STILL TO COME

The Speidels say they will introduce lunch hours in the fall.