Durk's Bar-B-Q returns to Providence in a new space

Gail Ciampa | The Providence Journal | Nov. 17, 2020

Less than a year after moving off College Hill, Durk's Bar-B-Q has reopened in downtown Providence. Texas-style barbecue lovers of brisket, pulled pork, dry-rubbed ribs, mac and cheese, and banana pudding can enjoy their food on site or for takeout at 35 Aborn St.

Follow the aromas to the restaurant. They fill downtown, coming from Stella, the Ole Hickory smoker where meats cook for 8 to 14 hours. There's something new, too, a wood-fired grill.

"It's changed the way we do things," said chef Ed Davis. 

He said it gives them a range to go beyond their signature smoked meats to grilled vegetable dishes. Those include cauliflower, locally sourced from Four Town Farm and Wishing Stone Farm, made with smoked peanuts and pickled peppers. The wood grill gives him many vegan options to cook that match the quality of the smoked meats, he said.

Also new to the menu are snacks including a corndog made with housemade sausage, and pierogi made with brisket and potato. 

The brisket is now made with a rub that includes roasted Bolt Coffee, Davis said.

After waiting nearly a year to reopen, Davis has been thinking about his menu full-time.

"I'm excited about everything," he said, including a new jonnycake dessert topped with bourbon ice cream, apple butter and candied corn nuts.

The restaurant opened to instant success in January 2017, not just with their authentic barbecue menu but also with cocktails made with American whiskeys and a curated beer list.

It was the second business from Providence architect Steve Durkee, working with managing partners Jay Carr and Stefanie Carr. They also have run The Eddy on Eddy Street downtown since 2013. The two restaurants are now just blocks away each other. 

Jennifer Ferriera is beverage director for both Durk's and the Eddy. She said there are 150 American bourbons and ryes at the bar. She too, is using the new wood grill, but for drinks. Think Old Fashioneds on tap with smoked maple and a mezcal cocktail with grilled apple.  

Durkee loves the new location and the design done by Libby Slader, which includes a wall of pig checkers from artist Jim Reynolds. The Mark Freedman painting from the College Hill location has moved into the new space.

Though the plan was to reopen last spring, the COVID pandemic delayed the project. But it also enabled them to make adjustments, including installing a new HVAC system with ionization to protect from airborne pathogens. Two garage doors open to the street to bring in more airflow. 

"Safety is our number one concern for what we need to do for our staff and guests," said Stefanie Carr.

The restaurant opens with about 50 seats, less than full occupancy, per COVID regulations. Full occupancy will be 160 at the restaurant. They are well-equipped for takeout, said Carr.  

The restaurant is in the former home of the Satin Doll, a strip club. 

Details: Durk's Bar-B-Q, 35 Aborn St., Providence, (401) 563-8622, durksbbq.com. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday starting at 4 p.m. They will close at 10 p.m. except for Friday and Saturday nights.